If you love knitting and have ever wished you could make money from it, then make sure you keep reading because I
Monday, November 2nd, 2009
To follow on from my last post, the other thing I find really handy is to have a summary of pattern abbreviations and conversions close to hand. So here's a list of all the ones I know or could find – feel free to add more if you know some!
ALT – Alternate or alternately
APPROX – Approximately
BC – Back Cross (Also RC or Right Cross)
BEG – Beginning
BET – Between
BO – Bind Off
CC – Complementary Color – Contrasting Color – The secondary color yarn
CM – Centimetres (2.54 centimetres is the same as one Inch)
CN – Cable Needle
CO – Cast On
CONT – Continue
DEC – Decrease
DPN – Double Pointed Needles
FC – Front Cross (Also LC or Left Cross)
FL – Front Loop
FOLL – Following
G st – Garter Stitch
G – Gram (There are approximately 28.35 grams in one ounce)
INC – Increase
INCL – Including
K – Knitted Stitch – K will often be followed by a number such as K5 meaning you need to make five knitted stitches.
K1B – Knit One Below – Knit the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching
K2TOG – Knit two stitches together
KB – Knit Below – Knit the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching
KFB – Knit into the front and back of a stitch
KWISE – Knitwise – This indicates a slip stitch done “knitwise” or like a knit stitch.
LC – LC Cross (Also FC or Front Cross)
LH – Left Hand
LP – Loop
LT – Left Twist
M – Meter – One meter is roughly 39 inches
M1 – Make One Stitch
M1PST – Make one purl stitch
MB – Make Bobble – A bobble is a raised area that may be included to add a touch of dimension.
MC – Main Color – The Main color yarn for your project
MM – Millimetre – Generally used to gauge or measure needles and occasionally yarn length
Oz – Ounce – Knitting yarn will often be purchased by measures of weight
P – Purl Stitch – P will often be followed by a number like P3 meaning make three Purl Stitches.
P1B – Purl One Below – Purl the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching
P2TOG – Purl two stitches together
PAT – Pattern
PB – Purl Below – Purl the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching
PFB – Purl the front and back of a stitch
PM – Place Marker
PNSO – Pass Next Stitch Over
PREV – Previous
PSSO – Pass Slip Stitch Over
PWISE – Purlwise – This indicates a slip stitch done “purlwise” or like a purl stitch.
RC – Right Cross (Also BC or Back Cross)
RH – Right Hand
REM – Remaining
REP – Repeat
Rev St st – Reverse Stockinette Stitch
RND – Round
RS – Right Side – The side of the “fabric” that will be the outside of a garment or the upside or visible side of a decoration, trim or other element that is visible in the finished product.
RT – Right Twist
SK – Skip
SKP – Slip Knit Pass – This is where you will slip two knit stitches together as one and pass them over the last stitch knitted.
SK2P – Slip, knit two stitches together and pass over the two stitches to decrease by two stitches
SL – Slip
SL1K – Slip one stitch knitwise
SL1P – Slip one stitch purlwise
SL ST – Slip Stitch – SL ST will often be followed by a number to indicate the number of slip stitches that need to be made. (May also be referred to as SS in some patterns)
SS – Slip Stitch – SS will often be followed by a number to indicate the number of slip stitches that need to be made. (May also be referred to as SL ST in some patterns)
SSK – Slip Slip Knit – This is where you will make two slip stitches together as one and then knit them together through the back loop. (The actual number of slips may change, thus you may see SSSK or something similar as well)
St st – Stockinette Stitch
TBL – Through Back Loop – The stitch should be knitted through the back loop
TOG – Together – Indicates that the stitches should be stitched together as opposed to stitching them separately so that K2TOG would indicate you need to stitch two stitches together as one single stitch.
WS – Wrong Side – The side of the fabric or garment that will be against the skin and not visible to the outside world or the underside of a decoration, trim, ribbing element or other knitted products.
WYIB – With Yarn in Back
WYIF – With Yarn in Front
YD – Yard – 36 inches
YFWD – Yarn Forward
YO – Yarn Over – Where The stitch will be made with the yarn going over as opposed to under.
YRN – Yarn around the needle
YON – Yarn over the needle
Tuesday, August 4th, 2009
For any knitting designers out there, Tess at Angel Yarns is looking for original pattern designs for new yarns!
She is looking for scarves, mitts, cardigans, jumpers, socks shawls and hats.
If you are interested, send through some pictures of your work. If you are approved, she will buy your designs and they will be put up as free patterns on the angel yarns site. Just send an email to Tess at www.angelyarns.com.
Tuesday, August 4th, 2009
I have had a great question from Rose, which I thought someone may have an answer for. Here is her question:
Monday, May 11th, 2009
The comments after my post about quick knitting patterns were great because they highlighted an issue that most knitters who sell their work will face, whether you can use a someone else’s knitting patterns to make knitted products to sell (even if the knitting pattern is free). So I’ve done a bit of research on copyright and how it applies to knitting and crochet…
Copyright is a form of legal protection for creators of original works (whether literary, artistic, dramatic or musical) which ensures they are credited (and/or paid) for that work for a certain period of time. This includes original knitting and crochet patterns.
Copyright laws were created because there needed to be a balance between sharing ideas and information, and making sure that the original creators of those ideas are credited for them. Without copyright laws, people may be much less willing to share their ideas for fear that others could use their creation to make money, with no credit or reward to them for their inspiration. But sometimes copyright works against the author, with people unwilling to use an idea or inspiration for fear of infringing copyright, and so the work is never widely known.
When you find a knitting pattern, whether it is in a published book or free on the internet, it is automatically subject to copyright laws, which are in essence the same around the world. If it says "All rights reserved", that means you basically can’t do anything but knit it for yourself or perhaps as a gift. If it just says copyright or says nothing at all, then the best course of action is to contact the designer and ask.
Obviously, you can’t just change a couple of stitches and claim a design as your own, but you can use the ideas and techniques in a pattern to create your own designs. Exactly how much different it needs to be to not infringe copyright is like asking "how long is a piece of yarn?". A lot of it is down to common sense and courtesy really – if you’re not sure, just ask the designer. The knitting world is generally a friendly and sharing community, and every author can decide what you are allowed to do with their patterns. If you ask, most are quite happy to at least discuss it.
There are also patterns available that are in the "public domain". This means that their copyright term has ended, and you are completely free to use them, reproduce them, modify them and resell them as you wish. Generally these are vintage knitting patterns published before 1963 (this is for the US, and providing their copyright has not been renewed).
These days there is a big swing towards "free licence", which means many people are putting their original ideas and works out into the world happy for people to use them as long as they credit them as the original creator. I really like this model because it encourages sharing and collaboration, which is something that sits very well with the knitting community spirit.
If you are a designer, it is also a great way to get your patterns known by lots of people, because they will be more willing to share and recommend them. You are also likely to make more sales worldwide with this model because it opens up whole new markets – especially people who want to make money from knitting and need unique patterns that they can sell from!
And when you think about it, the actual knitting pattern is really only part of the creative process of the finished knitted product. The knitter will choose the colours and yarns and fix mistakes or make small alterations to a pattern. So every finished piece will probably be a bit different from the original design!
If you have patterns that you are happy for people to sell the finished work from, feel free to post your web address and details in the comments section below and get some free traffic! Or if you have any comments or other information about copyright of knitting patterns, please post a reply and let us all know.
Monday, May 4th, 2009
This is just a quick post to show you some knitting pattern books that have small, fast or easy-to-knit projects.
Great for using up yarn, and music for the profitable knitters ears with many projects able to be completed in a day or less.
They may fit your niche already, or you could alter them slightly to make them suit using different yarns or colours, or adding decorative elements. All are great for ideas and inspiration.
This is by no means a definitive list of fast-to-knit knitting pattern books but it hopefully gives you some ideas and inspiration. I have contacted the authors and publishers to see if they are happy for the finished projects to be sold, but have not received responses yet, so please wait for an update here, or contact them yourself before going ahead and using these patterns for your knitting business!
I have used Amazon links for the pictures so you can get an idea of their price too.
Judith Durant has created a range of these great pattern books with knitting patterns that use only one skein of yarn.
This is very useful if you are Knitting For Profit because you don’t have to worry about dye lots or running out of yarn, and they are relatively small projects so they are fast to complete.
"Speed Knitting" by Kris Percival has fast and easy to complete projects, easy for beginners and fast for experienced knitters. Part of the trick is using chunky yarns and big needles which makes the whole project come along a lot faster.
"Last Minute Knitted Gifts" by Joelle Hoverson has a good range of easy projects all able to be completed in under 10 hours. She uses a wide range of colours and textures which will give you great ideas for making your products stand out. [UPDATE] – Joelle has let me know that you can’t sell pieces you knit from patterns in this book, but it might still be a good one to have a look at for ideas.
"Weekend Knitting" by Melanie Falick is a popular book that includes projects designed to be knitted in a weekend or less. There are lots of unique designs such as a flower-shaped washcloth and little egg-cozies, plus projects covering a range of knitting difficulties too. [UPDATE] – The publishers replied and said that you can’t sell items you knit from Melanie’s book, but you could contact the designer of each item individually and ask for permission.
"One Skein" by Leigh Radford is another book of fast-to-knit projects that use only one skein of yarn, mostly patterns for fashion accessories and decorative pieces for homes. There are also projects designed to use up all those leftover bits from other projects.
I will hunt around for some free fast-knit patterns too, and include them in a future post!