Knitting For Profit

Posts Tagged ‘crochet pattern’

Knitting Pattern Abbreviations – A Handy Summary

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

To follow on from my last post, the other knitting ideas I find really handy is to have a summary of knitting pattern abbreviations and conversions close to hand. So here's a list of all the ones I know or could find – feel free to add more if you know some!

ALT – Alternate or alternately

APPROX – Approximately

BC – Back Cross (Also RC or Right Cross)

BEG – Beginning

BET – Between

BO – Bind Off

CC – Complementary Color – Contrasting Color – The secondary color yarn

CM – Centimetres (2.54 centimetres is the same as one Inch)

CN – Cable Needle

CO – Cast On

CONT – Continue

DEC – Decrease

DPN – Double Pointed Needles

FC – Front Cross (Also LC or Left Cross)

FL – Front Loop

FOLL – Following

G st – Garter Stitch

G – Gram (There are approximately 28.35 grams in one ounce)

INC – Increase

INCL – Including

K – Knitted Stitch – K will often be followed by a number such as K5 meaning you need to make five knitted stitches.

K1B – Knit One Below – Knit the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching

K2TOG – Knit two stitches together

KB – Knit Below – Knit the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching

KFB – Knit into the front and back of a stitch

KWISE – Knitwise – This indicates a slip stitch done “knitwise” or like a knit stitch.

LC – LC Cross (Also FC or Front Cross)

LH – Left Hand

LP – Loop

LT – Left Twist

M – Meter – One meter is roughly 39 inches

M1 – Make One Stitch

M1PST – Make one purl stitch

MB – Make Bobble – A bobble is a raised area that may be included to add a touch of dimension.

MC – Main Color – The Main color yarn for your project

MM – Millimetre – Generally used to gauge or measure needles and occasionally yarn length

Oz – Ounce – Knitting yarn will often be purchased by measures of weight

P – Purl Stitch – P will often be followed by a number like P3 meaning make three Purl Stitches.

P1B – Purl One Below – Purl the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching

P2TOG – Purl two stitches together

PAT – Pattern

PB – Purl Below – Purl the stitch into the row below the one you are stitching

PFB – Purl the front and back of a stitch

PM – Place Marker

PNSO – Pass Next Stitch Over

PREV – Previous

PSSO – Pass Slip Stitch Over

PWISE – Purlwise – This indicates a slip stitch done “purlwise” or like a purl stitch.

RC – Right Cross (Also BC or Back Cross)

RH – Right Hand

REM – Remaining

REP – Repeat

Rev St st – Reverse Stockinette Stitch

RND – Round

RS – Right Side – The side of the “fabric” that will be the outside of a garment or the upside or visible side of a decoration, trim or other element that is visible in the finished product.

RT – Right Twist

SK – Skip

SKP – Slip Knit Pass – This is where you will slip two knit stitches together as one and pass them over the last stitch knitted.

SK2P – Slip, knit two stitches together and pass over the two stitches to decrease by two stitches

SL – Slip

SL1K – Slip one stitch knitwise

SL1P – Slip one stitch purlwise

SL ST – Slip Stitch – SL ST will often be followed by a number to indicate the number of slip stitches that need to be made. (May also be referred to as SS in some patterns)

SS – Slip Stitch – SS will often be followed by a number to indicate the number of slip stitches that need to be made. (May also be referred to as SL ST in some patterns)

SSK – Slip Slip Knit – This is where you will make two slip stitches together as one and then knit them together through the back loop. (The actual number of slips may change, thus you may see SSSK or something similar as well)

St st – Stockinette Stitch

TBL – Through Back Loop – The stitch should be knitted through the back loop

TOG – Together – Indicates that the stitches should be stitched together as opposed to stitching them separately so that K2TOG would indicate you need to stitch two stitches together as one single stitch.

WS – Wrong Side – The side of the fabric or garment that will be against the skin and not visible to the outside world or the underside of a decoration, trim, ribbing element or other knitted products.

WYIB – With Yarn in Back

WYIF – With Yarn in Front

YD – Yard – 36 inches

YFWD – Yarn Forward

YO – Yarn Over – Where The stitch will be made with the yarn going over as opposed to under.

YRN – Yarn around the needle

YON – Yarn over the needle

Tags: beginner knitting, crochet pattern, easy knitting pattern, knitting ideas, knitting instructions, knitting pattern, knitting pattern abbreviations, learn to knit
Posted in Knitting Resources | No Comments »

Can You Help Rose Convert Crochet Patterns To Knitting?

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

 I have had a great question from Rose, which I thought someone may have an answer for. Here is her question:

Tags: crochet pattern, knitting pattern
Posted in Knitting Bits and Bobs, Knitting Resources | 2 Comments »

An Update On Knitting Pattern Copyrights

Monday, May 11th, 2009

The comments after my post about quick knitting patterns were great because they highlighted an issue that most knitters who sell their work will face, whether you can use a someone else’s knitting patterns to make knitted products to sell (even if the knitting pattern is free). So I’ve done a bit of research on copyright and how it applies to knitting and crochet…

Copyright is a form of legal protection for creators of original works (whether literary, artistic, dramatic or musical) which ensures they are credited (and/or paid) for that work for a certain period of time. This includes original knitting and crochet patterns.

Copyright laws were created because there needed to be a balance between sharing ideas and information, and making sure that the original creators of those ideas are credited for them. Without copyright laws, people may be much less willing to share their ideas for fear that others could use their creation to make money, with no credit or reward to them for their inspiration. But sometimes copyright works against the author, with people unwilling to use an idea or inspiration for fear of infringing copyright, and so the work is never widely known.

When you find a knitting pattern, whether it is in a published book or free on the internet, it is automatically subject to copyright laws, which are in essence the same around the world. If it says "All rights reserved", that means you basically can’t do anything but knit it for yourself or perhaps as a gift. If it just says copyright or says nothing at all, then the best course of action is to contact the designer and ask.

Obviously, you can’t just change a couple of stitches and claim a design as your own, but you can use the ideas and techniques in a pattern to create your own designs. Exactly how much different it needs to be to not infringe copyright is like asking "how long is a piece of yarn?". A lot of it is down to common sense and courtesy really – if you’re not sure, just ask the designer. The knitting world is generally a friendly and sharing community, and every author can decide what you are allowed to do with their patterns. If you ask, most are quite happy to at least discuss it.

There are also patterns available that are in the "public domain". This means that their copyright term has ended, and you are completely free to use them, reproduce them, modify them and resell them as you wish. Generally these are vintage knitting patterns published before 1963 (this is for the US, and providing their copyright has not been renewed).

These days there is a big swing towards "free licence", which means many people are putting their original ideas and works out into the world happy for people to use them as long as they credit them as the original creator. I really like this model because it encourages sharing and collaboration, which is something that sits very well with the knitting community spirit.

If you are a designer, it is also a great way to get your patterns known by lots of people, because they will be more willing to share and recommend them. You are also likely to make more sales worldwide with this model because it opens up whole new markets – especially people who want to make money from knitting and need unique patterns that they can sell from!

And when you think about it, the actual knitting pattern is really only part of the creative process of the finished knitted product. The knitter will choose the colours and yarns and fix mistakes or make small alterations to a pattern. So every finished piece will probably be a bit different from the original design!

If you have patterns that you are happy for people to sell the finished work from, feel free to post your web address and details in the comments section below and get some free traffic! Or if you have any comments or other information about copyright of knitting patterns, please post a reply and let us all know.

Tags: crochet pattern, knitting business, knitting copyright, knitting pattern, knitting pattern copyright, selling knitting, vintage knitting pattern
Posted in Knitting Patterns, Make Money Knitting | 20 Comments »